Now that I have the basic build done, it’s time to add the brakes and drive chain.
On this particular frame the cabling is routed externally and there is only one derailleur cable, so is much easier to fit. Internally routed cabling requires a lot more fitting time to ensure that the cables do not wrap around each other or the hydraulic hose for the rear brake inside the frame: a problem we regularly encounter in the workshop at Cycle Care.
Attach the required brake mounts (depending on brake rotor size) to the frame and then attach the callipers
Most hydraulic brakes are supplied ready to fit and use, without the need to attach hoses and fill/bleed the system. So route the hoses and secure to the frame (either with C-clips or zip ties) and slide the brake lever on to the handlebars – I leave the clamp loose knowing that I’ll have to remove the lever a few times before completion of the build.
Before starting on the drive chain, it is important to fit the chain guide if you are using one, as the installation of the crankset will make access to it much harder.
You may remember in section 3. Components Pt 2 I mentioned that the Hope Bottom Bracket was a 30mm baring, and the DUB is 28.99mm.It is vital to use a conversion kit, or of course a DUB specific Bottom Bracket.
Having inserted the kit into the bottom bracket, ensure the pre-tension collar is tight against the crank arm, and insert the crank from the non-drive side. Take care to ensure the conversion cup isn’t misplaced when the crank comes through to the drive side. Slip the spacer over the crank shaft and attach the drive side crank. Use a torque wrench to tighten as specified.
Rotate the pre-tension collar to remove any side-to-side play in the crank, then secure it by screwing in the bolt using a 2mm hex key.